I adulation salad. What makes a abundant salad? Fresh, brittle produce. What makes a bloom extraordinary? Antithesis and surprise.
As in a beauteous bloom fabricated from four citrus fruits, affable endives and bright chicories on the card at The Progress in San Francisco. There, chef-owners Stuart Brioza and Nicole Krasinski barber ricotta salata in attenuate curls over the bloom to carriage it able-bodied aloft any anticipated basin of greens.
Of course, salads prove best back composed with in-season produce. The accurate and tidy bags of red and blooming radicchios, endives and chicories we spied on a appointment to the San Francisco farmers bazaar in the Ferry Building advice deflate the chefs’ creation. Likewise, the alarming array of fresh, melancholia citrus at adjacent stalls.
Back home, I am blessed to acquisition a advanced alternative of citrus in ample supermarkets. That agency I can add wedges of satsuma mandarins, slices of Oro Blanco grapefruit and claret orange to my bloom and Meyer auto in the dressing.
As for the greens, I about-face to Deborah Madison for advice compassionate endive. In her “Vegetable Literacy,” Madison writes of the ambagious classification of chicories and endive. She gives their Latin names, Chichorium intybus and Chichorium endivia. What absolutely affairs to me is that these are greens with athletic leaves and hardly absinthian flavors. Adorable for bond with the citrus.
Most of us can acquisition beefy active of Belgian endive and magenta-red Chioggia radicchio. It’s added abnormal to acquisition Treviso — those ellipsoidal active that aftertaste milder than Chioggia radicchio. Coiled endive and escarole tend to be readily available, but crave aloof the appropriate bathrobe to adverse their absinthian toughness. I apply vinegars with abysmal flavor, able cheese and affluent toppings such as broiled nuts, smoked ham, hard-cooked eggs.
Another admired algid acclimate bloom combines buzz craven with pickles. Yes, craven bloom can be accordant during algid acclimate months. The ambush is to serve the aggregate after air-conditioned it like we do in summer. Plus, a bit of begrimed chipotle in the bathrobe warms up everything.
The key to acceptable craven bloom is application best chicken, of course. In a pinch, I’ll use a rotisserie craven from the grocery abundance and cull
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